But you didn’t directly plug it in, there was always some sort of adapter involved (thanks for the generous ports, Valve). There must have been something wrong with the adapters. Sometimes, you just have to flip USB-C over for it to work (thanks, Intel).

You might be the first person to run the Linux build, including the developer. I have a few games where the Linux version is a mess, so I have to use the Windows ver. “Win32 is Linux’s stable gaming API”.

I think the problem is that the itch release is literally the same build as steam’s, but the dev didn’t do a very good job of neutering the “ask a steam api” bit. They accept “lol what is steam?” as a valid answer, but not “steam is responding, and says you own 0 copies of game 8675309”.

First, check protondb. Then put a comment up on itch.io. Is anybody else complaining? Is anybody else commenting on the game at all?

Add the game to heroic and let heroic add it to Steam? I recommend always using either the latest proton-ge, or the latest of the previous proton-ge (9.27).

Or remove the steamapi library from the game’s folder. Or add a steam_appid.txt.

Or a last resort would be Goldberg.

I rather like the Logitech MX 2. It’s comfortable (for a right hander), and is shockingly reliable for a bluetooth device.

My recc for a keyboard is “good god never an Epomaker”. They look like a discount Keychron, but are fucking useless. A stuttttering messs.

This is all assuming that the dollar is worth anything in the future. The way things are going, uh maybe not

Bear in mind that the speakers don’t work by default because they are being driven by an amp that can totally blow them up. The speakers need software protection that physically models how the waveform is turned into sound and heat, and vetoes signals that might damage them. If it’s wrong, your speakers can go pop.

You could try working a little deoxyit or contact cleaner into the switch. Considering that it didn’t have a period of being flaky before it died, I am not optimistic that this will help.

Isn’t it great that the most important button is soldered on the backside of the mainboard, and is also fragile af?

Tomb Raider Survival Trilogy for $7.19

Shadow of Mordor/War for $6.99

Prodigal for $1.49 - Zelda plus date sim

Toem for $3.99 - gotta photograph em all

Crosscode for $5.99 - SPMMOOTY

Saint’s Row 4 $2.99

Vampire Survivors for $3.74 - everybody is legally required to have a copy

20 Small Mazes for $0 Doronko Wanko $0

My main recommendation is “don’t put all of your money into a bunch of PS5 AAA games”. PS5-ish games fit “if we turn all of the settings down, and render in 1/4 rez, and then AI upscale, and still your battery only lasts an hour”. It often isn’t a great experience here.

A strength of the Deck is in delivering an endless back catalog of PS4 and prior styles of games. Another is in bringing forward a ton of indie games that can’t win at “marketing”, can’t afford to develop PS5-level visuals, so they fight like hell on “mixing up new and interesting gameplay” and “price”.

The Deck’s reader does the full 80MB/s UHS-I well enough. It works well electrically, but the ejector sucks. I’ve picked up my system, and had the card randomly hang out like 😛. It is vital to tape over the card to keep it from wandering off on its own.

With the way that memory prices are going, Valve is going to bring back the 64GB model.

/s

/not s

My left stick started jittering after a year. Switched the sticks out with Gulikit, and they were fine for a few years, then the right stick went bonkers psycho.

Replaced it with a̶n̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶-b̶r̶a̶n̶d̶ Gulikit again, cuz that was the only make available. Sigh.

When you’re playing HDR, any movie can be a Smurf Movie.

Some people don’t want the same beige tower as you.

I don’t think the rest of Linux is ready for HDR.

And judging by my mum’s LG OLED tv, nobody else is ready for HDR either.

Glass Harmonica Erotica

Öoo was a nice quick play. Logic Bombs is a brutal puzzler with a fantastic Gameboy rom included.

Hey, speaking of “early lcd models”, how is your power button holding up? Mine is getting flaky. Have to press it a couple of times, maybe tilt it a little, to get it to work.

Go to bluetooth settings, and tap on each of your paired devices. There is a (probably brand new) setting to Allow this device to wake the deck.

Heroic’s installed as a Flatpak, right? Any path that flatpak doesn’t actually allow out of the sandbox is going to be inside the sandbox.

find ~/.var/app/com.heroicgameslauncher.hgl -iname games

Huh. Mmmaybe the LCD model has board revisions that are still different enough to trip things up? It’s definitely a bug to have wireplumber not “do the right thing no matter what hardware it booted up on today”, it would probably take a Valve engineer to chase that down and submit a patch.